Savory Squash and Sage Biscuits

A small-batch bake for cozy fall days, and the answer to "what can I bring?"

A savory biscuit is THE answer to:

• The question “what can I bring?” to Friendsgiving

• An unconventional appetizer (made mini!)

• An aspirational fall picnic spread

• What to serve with a mushroom and kale fritatta

• Where to spread that hot honey butter you made

• A nice accompaniment to scrambled eggs, breakfast sausage and bacon

• The bowl of lentil soup or beef stew that needs something extra alongside

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Tips and Techniques:

I considered specific ingredients + techniques to make these biscuits successful (i.e. flaky, light, buttery and flavorful):

• The Squash: I’m sorry to do this to you, but you only need 1/2 cup mashed squash for this recipe (1 cup if you double it!) This is what to make when you already have plans to roast a big butternut or a few delicata squash. To roast a winter squash, half and de-seed your squash. Place cut-side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Roast at 425F for about 45 minutes (depending on the size of the squash) until a knife goes in like soft butter. I have not tried it, but I suspect you can also use frozen (defrosted) or canned squash or pumpkin, but you may need a little less buttermilk to compensate for the additional moisture.

• The Flour: I developed these to work with both AP flour and gluten-free 1:1 AP flour (like King Arthur Measure for Measure or Cup4Cup brand).

• The Butter & Cheese: Cold dairy = flaky layers. Pop your butter and cheese in the freezer for 20 minutes before shredding using the large holes of a box grater. You’ll be amazed how much easier it is to shred. Shredding the butter, in particular, eliminates the need to work the butter into the flour, and the risk of the butter getting warm or the dough getting overmixed, resulting in a tougher, flatter biscuit.

• The Buttermilk: Don’t skip it, and keep it cold! It may not be a staple in your fridge (yet) but it adds a welcome tang to offset the sweetness of the squash, while adding moisture and binding the dough. Use it up in pancakes (NYT), a quick ranch (BA) or blue cheese dressing or better yet, in Samin’s buttermilk roast chicken. DIY it by adding about 2 teaspoons of lemon juice or light-colored vinegar to 1/2 cup milk.

• The Sugar: Adding a little sugar to savory bakes is a tip I was reminded of recently by Jessie Sheehan, author of the new book Salty, Cheesy, Herby, Crispy Snackable Bakes. Sugar promotes browning and balances the salt - the same idea as adding a pinch of salt to cookies and cakes.

Same recipe, shot on iPhone vs. DSLR (pro camera). Which image do you prefer?

Left: My iPhone photo during recipe development. Right: Photo by cross-tester Lisa Thompson

Small-Batch Squash and Sage Biscuits

Makes about 5 biscuits, easily doubles

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup mashed cooked winter squash (like delicata or butternut)

• 1/2 cup (113g) COLD buttermilk

• 2 1/2 cups (300g) all-purpose or 1:1 gluten-free all-purpose flour

• 2 tablespoons (15g) chopped fresh sage leaves, plus more for garnish

• 1 tablespoon (12g) granulated sugar

• 1 tablespoon (12g) baking powder

• 1 1/2 teaspoons (9g) baking soda

• 1/4 teaspoon (3g) fine sea salt

• 8 tablespoons (1 stick) COLD unsalted butter, shredded

• 3/4 cup (85g) COLD shredded sharp cheddar cheese

• Coarsely ground black pepper, for topping

• 1 egg, beaten

Directions:

1. In a medium bowl, whisk squash and buttermilk. Chill in fridge.

2. In a large bowl, whisk flour, sage, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt.

3. Working quickly, add shredded butter and cheese to dry ingredients, using a fork to combine.

4. Add buttermilk mixture to dry ingredients. Use a fork or wooden spoon to combine, being careful not to overmix. The dough will be crumbly.

5. Working quickly (see a theme here?) use your hands to bring the crumbs together into a shaggy dough. Turn out dough onto a floured surface and bring together into a 1 1/2-inch thick rectangle. Do not overmix.

6. Use a sharp knife to cut into 5-6 pieces (squares or a more rustic shape) or use a 3-inch cookie or biscuit cutter to cut rounds. Place on parchment-lined baking sheet. If you cut circles, form the scraps into another biscuit or two. Freeze for about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 425F

   Make-Ahead Tip: Once biscuits are frozen, place in a freezer bag or air-tight container and freeze for up to 6 months. Proceed to the next step, adding additional baking time.

   7. Brush biscuits with egg wash and press a sage leaf in the center. Sprinkle with black pepper. Bake for 20-25 minutes until golden brown, rotating the baking sheet halfway through. Biscuits are best enjoyed the day they are baked, but can be reheated in the oven at 350F to rewarm.

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